Lacing News
nan turpin photograph
Here’s a good argument for vacant lots, older buildings and ghost signs.
Along South Michigan Avenue in Chicago we look up and see “Wear Gossard Corsets, They Lace in Front.” Never noticed that before. What did it mean? How modern was it? What other questions does this ghost sign raise about the world, the ladies and gentlemen and the corsets in the last years of the corset.
Today’s column includes links to two Gossard newspaper ads from 1913 and 1915. The illustrated advertisements tease lady readers with lowered prices, $3.50 to $20, including fitting. They promise the comfort of a natural waistline with the allure of revealing “the lines of the figure.”
According to the Gossard Company, Mr. Gossard went to Paris and had his “epiphany” discovering the full-figured Sarah Bernhardt before and after corseting. In 1901 he left the dressmaking trade and opened his corset company, in Chicago.
By the on-line circa World War adverts we see, the corset was fighting for its life as more women flirted with the unfettered feel of modern underwear. Corsets promised to give the best of both worlds, the Victorian engineered female body in stays and the modern liberated female body that, all knew, might be comfortably shapeless and ultimately wanting more of a “narration.”
We wonder about the front lacing feature, what was its attraction? The owner-operator had quicker access, quicker comfort, perhaps after a meal? Or the wearer could now lace herself in the absence of servants and a dwindling domestic class. The 1915 ad, during World War I but before U.S. entry into that war, mentions a volatile American fashion industry that had freed itself from Europe, possibly because of the re-direction of manufacturing in Europe, from corsets to weapons.
Our point today is not to dissert on corsets, as snappy a topic as it is. Our point is to sing out for our cities that manage to preserve the old building stock. These old brick walls transmit messages, messages from the past. Through the questions they give us, we get closer to time past. Just asking and knowing we don’t know, we are closer.
All of this as we hurry down the street, late to a meeting.
Additional Sources:
The Spokane Daily Chronicle Gossard ad from Thursday, October 9, 1913:
http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1338&dat=19131009&id=GcFXAAAAIBAJ&sjid=HfQDAAAAIBAJ&pg=4366,2242995
The Dry Goods Reporter, January 2, 1915:
http://books.google.com/books?id=4cgcAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA14&lpg=PA14&dq=wear+gossard+corsets+they+lace+from+front&source=bl&ots=wMIys7LciB&sig=Q3O1O29HvMj9kjIogrIpO5XvOtI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=h2SGU6HkKuih8AHFk4CwAw&ved=0CEgQ6AEwCg#v=onepage&q=wear%20gossard%20corsets%20they%20lace%20from%20front&f=false
From the Gossard Company’s current website, the pictorial timeline of their Heritage in fine underwear:
http://www.gossardusa.com/About-Gossard/Heritage
Google Gossard Corsets and fall into the “rabbit hole” of scholarly interest in the subject. Don’t miss the bound edition of The Farm Journal (on Amazon) where Gossard corset adds promise to “end corset worries” such as pushing the bosom up too much or the deadlier danger of snapping metal and bone (the whale’s not the wearer’s).
Now Google Gossard Corsets again to find Upper Peninsula’s Marquette Monthly (from March, 2005) and Erin Elliott’s whale of a Gossard corset story.
Just be careful because you can’t just visit corsets, you’ll want a stay (there’s a Corset Pinterest link in there). This column might have a sequel if more corsetry is forthcoming.